Fodder pops up anew in Islington, promising ‘a month of local, wild and seasonal ingredients’


THE FOODIE SCENE is so lively in northeast London that deciding what is newsworthy can be difficult, especially for a site that lacks a food reviewer. But a pop-up in Islington caught Loving Dalston’s eye.

Fodder returns to Brewery Below in Essex Road for a month. The Islington pop-up’s publicist says that a new menu uses “local, wild and seasonal ingredients”.

© NA to LD
Ollie Downey, new co-chef

She gets excited about Ollie Downey, a chef working in the kitchen with Michael Thompson. Apparently, the guys cooked together at Fera at Claridge’s, under Simon Rogan, a name the publicist vocally brackets with the kind of hushed awe usually reserved for rock stars.

The pop-up runs alongside Urban Food Fortnight, an annual celebration of food and produce, which is helping to connect the cooks with local and independent suppliers, among them natural-honey collector Hive & Keeper, Article Number 25, which grows mushrooms using the grounds from London coffee shops that would  otherwise go to waste, and vegetable-supplier Good Earth Growers in, uhm, Cornwall (local?).

Still, Thompson says: “September brings a new season… the hedgerows are brimming with goodies that we’ve been picking and preserving [for the pop-up].”

David Altheer 070917

* Seven courses will cost you £45. Fodder runs from today to 30 September 2017— Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays from 7pm — at Brewery Below, Borough Wines and Beers’ nano-brewery and event space at 344 Essex Road, London N1 3PD. Wheelchair access difficult. Booking 

* Fodder supplied no hospitality to Loving Dalston; only the pictures. 

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